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the new paris

The New Paris Dispatch #5

12 February 2018
Belleville Brûlerie at L'Exception Paris

After an unintentional hiatus (we moved apartments at the beginning of the month! More on that soon…), I’m happy to be back with the first 2018 installment of The New Paris Dispatch, a quick-fire look at changes and updates in the capital. Racines is back with Simone Tondo at the helm! Racines is a name synonymous with quality bistro cooking but it had largely fallen by the wayside in recent years as an endless crop of new establishments have stepped into the spotlight. Fortunately, the compact old-world favorite inside the Passage des Panoramas has gotten an overhaul with the arrival of Sardinian chef Simone Tondo. After Roseval and most recently Tondo, his namesake upscale restaurant in the 12th arrondissement, he’s back with a cuisine and an open-kitchen  that resembles his style best: a cross between the bistro and an osteria with the technique of a classically trained French chef and all the heart and spirit of Italian cooking. The menu is about great home-style cooking and features three starters (meat, veggie and fish), three main dishes (meat, fish and a pasta — my favorite), French cheeses, two dessert options (get the tiramisu), and beautiful wines. It was one of the […]…

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2017: “The New Paris” Year

31 December 2017
The New Paris Smithsonian Magazine

As I think of 2017’s swift end, I think of the disparity between what I observed for the world at large — a tumultuous year punctuated by political strain, instability, destruction, and uncertainty — and what I felt in my own little world. How do we reconcile personal accomplishments and contentment all while feeling distraught at the direction the world is heading? Perhaps enduring the emotional and psychological impact of the grim news cycle can’t be disassociated from the rest of our lives? I don’t have a firm answer to either question but what I do know after the intensity of the last year is that gratitude, support for others and the recognition that beauty can be found in the most unlikely of places, has never been more important. It’s probably why I’ve thrown myself wholly into holiday festivities this year and have allowed my spirits to be lifted by every twinkling light and rendition of Jingle Bells. I’ve also finally had a moment to reflect on the fact that the biggest project of my life was released into the world this year. I feel tremendously proud of “The New Paris” but mostly I feel grateful that so many readers have reached out to me to discuss it. It’s after the eight months since its release that I […]…

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The Cider Movement in Paris: Interview with Appie Founders

28 December 2017

What’s graced your holiday table this season? Bubbly? Or maybe a bottle of fine, full-bodied red wine that you’ve reserved for the occasion? In France, they are the cornerstone of any gathering. But there is a rising star competing for attention, a drink hitherto affixed to crêpe consumption the Chandeleur celebration in February: cider! And not just any cider but modern interpretations on an old drink. To understand how consumption is changing and why we’re starting to see a more robust showing from independent cider producers on restaurant and bar menus in Paris, I spoke with the founders of Appie, one of the pioneers changing the image of cider today. What inspired you to create a brand of cider, especially given how often the drink is associated with specific seasons or occasions (vs. an everyday drink)? The story of Appie, is first and foremost a story about friendship. The five of us founders met during college. It was during one of our many travels together that the idea surfaced. We were having a drink in London and wanted to drink something other than beer. We realized the pub we were in served draft cider. We ordered it and knew from […]…

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Paris Wine Bars: picks from The New Wine Rules author Jon Bonné

18 December 2017
The New Wine Rules by Jon Bonné

If there’s one essential guide to offer anyone and everyone in your life that is even remotely interested in wine (and by that I mean they drink it and buy bottles of it to have at home), it’s “The New Wine Rules: A Genuinely Helpful Guide to to Everything you Need to Know” by James Beard award-winning author and journalist Jon Bonné. Not only does the Punch editor’s wit and probity shine consistently throughout the 89 easy-to-follow rules, but the guide is refreshingly free of the esoteric wine-splaining that so often defines oenological discussions and tends to intimidate the average drinker in the process. I met Jon this summer at a special Mission Chinese pop-up event at La Buvette after months of chatting on Twitter. I had read quite a bit of his work and was eager to meet him. What I discovered was a man with a profound respect and love for Paris, a deep reservoir of knowledge for wine (obviously), and a sense of humor that matched my own. Fortunately, he has become a pied-à-terre owner in the neighborhood with his wife so I’m hopeful to get to know him even better in the coming year. That said, […]…

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The New Paris Dispatch #4

6 December 2017
Claus petit dejeuner left bank Paris

The New Paris Dispatch series brings you quick news updates from Paris in everything from food and shopping to culture and urban development. Claus takes breakfast to the left bank Claus: La Maison du Petit-Déjeuner has celebrated the art of the hearty breakfast for a number of years in the 1st arrondissement but now left-bankers can finally get their fix. Expect a brighter interior but all the same, well-executed specialities from eggs, pastries, fresh yogurts, fruit, greens, and coffees, in the Saint-Germain neighborhood. 2 rue Clément, 75006  Meet the Locals tour I’ve taken my fair share of walking tours, food tours, historical tours, and cultural tours all over France but rarely have they involved role playing. I recently had the opportunity to try out the Heroes of the French Revolution tour from Meet the Locals and found it a thoroughly enjoyable, clever, and engaging way to understand not only the context of a tumultuous period in French history but the figures that played a role in its outcome. I won’t give away the secrets of the tour but know that the walk unfolds through the lens of individual characters from the revolution (bonus: good for kids!). Thank you to Sophie, […]…

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