Where to Eat in Paris: 10th Arrondissement

13 January 2014

Despite reading this site for over four years and listening to me ramble on about new food movements and young, rising chefs in Paris, my mother had no requests or preferences when it came to dining out during her visit. The ball is was in my court (or rather, the feat – most restaurants were shuttering for the holiday season); I was tasked with giving her the local perspective and she’ll be the first to tell you her experience was richer for it. Sadly, not all travelers search beyond guidebook stalwarts or their friend’s glowing review of a prosaic corner café they tried on their sole visit to the city. For every magazine or newspaper article that extols the virtues of inventive new spots or even the top tables for classic French fare, visitors will continue to end up at places that peddle an erstwhile image of Parisianness like Les Deux Magots, Brasserie Lipp, Angelina, Chartier and others but ultimately prioritize style over substance. But if what you’re seeking is an experience at one of the many places shaping, improving and evolving the Paris food and drink scene that weigh quality and ambience equally -some quintessentially French in design, others […]…

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Breakfast by the Canal St. Martin

4 July 2012

For six years I’ve lived in the 11th arrondissement, right on the border of the 10th. When I first moved to Paris, these areas were relatively untouched by tourists. Visitors would go as far as the Bastille and maybe venture to the rue Oberkampf for a taste of its vibrant but less polished nightlife but the 10th arrondissement was rougher and far from being emblematic enough to compete with the city’s refined storybook image.  Now, both neighborhoods are products of stark and rapid gentrification which means that formerly forlorn buildings, cafés, dive bars and shops have largely been supplanted by artsy boutiques, trendy bars and coveted al fresco eateries. In a trajectory that arguably rivals Williamsburg (Brooklyn), the area along and around the Canal St. Martin, specifically, has experienced tremendous transformation, commanding more attention among travelers and locals alike than ever before.  Picnics and strolls are still de rigueur in these parts but it’s the morning meal in particular that has earned the hotspot its gold stars over the last year. Helmut Newcake (Paris’s first entirely gluten-free bakery and salon de thé), Le Sésame, La Chambre aux Oiseaux, Du Pain et des Idées (one of my longtime top picks) and Les Enfants […]…

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