The New Paris Dispatch #5

12 February 2018
Belleville Brûlerie at L'Exception Paris

After an unintentional hiatus (we moved apartments at the beginning of the month! More on that soon…), I’m happy to be back with the first 2018 installment of The New Paris Dispatch, a quick-fire look at changes and updates in the capital.

Racines is back with Simone Tondo at the helm!
Racines is a name synonymous with quality bistro cooking but it had largely fallen by the wayside in recent years as an endless crop of new establishments have stepped into the spotlight. Fortunately, the compact old-world favorite inside the Passage des Panoramas has gotten an overhaul with the arrival of Sardinian chef Simone Tondo. After Roseval and most recently Tondo, his namesake upscale restaurant in the 12th arrondissement, he’s back with a cuisine and an open-kitchen  that resembles his style best: a cross between the bistro and an osteria with the technique of a classically trained French chef and all the heart and spirit of Italian cooking. The menu is about great home-style cooking and features three starters (meat, veggie and fish), three main dishes (meat, fish and a pasta — my favorite), French cheeses, two dessert options (get the tiramisu), and beautiful wines. It was one of the most heart-warming and comforting meals I’ve had in ages in Paris and that’s in large part due to Tondo’s charismatic presence, visible from any of the 25 seats.

Open for lunch and dinner, Monday through Friday only. Reservations strongly recommended for both services.
8 passage des panoramas, 75002
Métro: Grands Boulevards (lines 8 or 9)

Printemps du Goût: 100% French
Late to the party though it may be, the Printemps department store has stepped into the food scene with its new food emporium, Printemps du Goût. Spanning two floors and brimming with thousands of products, food stands and restaurants, the shop distinguishes itself from La Grande Epicerie and Lafayette Gourmet by focusing solely on 100% French products. There is also a sharply curated selection of food and cooking books in the bookshop section, managed by the left bank bookstore Appétit, and stunning views of the city from the terrace on both the 7th and 8th floors. Though it will certainly be a hit among out-of-towners in search of unique edibles to bring home, I do intend to make a point of visiting whenever I find myself in the neighborhood, if only for a pastry and a loaf of bread from the supremely talented Gontran Cherrier.

Printemps du Goût, 7th and 8th floors of the Printemps de L’Homme (menswear) store

Anna Restaurant Paris

Welcome, Anna! New restaurant from Tannat owners
It may share similar design features, like mirrored ceilings and modern tables and chairs, but Anna makes a much different culinary statement than its big sister, Tannat. For one, it’s open 7/7 and offers a menu split into small dishes meant for sharing (though you should not feel obligated to share their twist on French onion soup) and large dishes suitable for big, solo appetites or for two to three people. They’ve just rolled out brunch on Sunday too which you can be sure elevates the usual tartine / oeufs brouillés / orange juice you’re likely to find in most restaurants.

Anna Bar and Restaurant – No reservations. 134-136 rue Saint-Maur, 75011
Métro: Goncourt (line 11) or Parmentier (line 3)

Belleville Brûlerie at L’Exception
L’Exception
, one of my favorite multi-label boutiques (which I speak about in The New Paris), has new management for its coffee shop annex. Belleville Brûlerie, which I’ve spoken at length about and consume almost daily (usually at home!), one of the city’s leading coffee roasters, has brought their act to the 1st arrondissement where they’ve set up as the boutique’s in-store café. Expect all of the same excellent coffees as you’ll get from them at La Fontaine de Belleville, their 10th arrondissement café, and a handful of cakes and savory options (soup, sandwich, seasonal salad). On top of that, you can pick up beans and at-home roasting accessories. Slowly but surely, quality coffee is moving beyond the usual coffee shop spaces, may it continue!

24 rue Berger, 75001. Bonus: the store is open until 8PM which means this is the only spot in town to have an evening coffee should you want/need it!
Métro: Etienne Marcel or Châtelet.

Sezane Demain

Demain, a philanthropic way to mark Sézane’s 5th anniversary 
Surely you’ll recognize Sézane, one of the city’s leading independent fashion boutiques, from my book. Since the book’s release, founder Morgane Sézalory has expanded the business into New York City with a permanent boutique, brought pop-ups to London, Lyon, Bordeaux and Montpellier, opened a permanent menswear offshoot called Octobre Editions and concocted a noble way to celebrate their 5th birthday. With DEMAIN, Sézalory has created a t-shirt for which 100% of the proceeds will be donated to La Voix de l’Enfant, an organization that develops projects in over 100 countries to support underprivileged children. Over the course of 2018, she’s committed to raising 1 million euros. This initiative comes after last year’s La Femme tee raised more than 150K euros for UN Women. I was excited to be part of raising awareness for this initiative and I hope you’ll consider picking up a t-shirt which looks great with everything and on everyone, to be sure, but also stands to do tremendous good. Learn more about this charity program at DEMAIN.

Los Angeles flavor lands in the Silicon Sentier with Echo
My friend and fellow writer Sara Lieberman has documented the Parisian embrace of Cali-style foods and activities (yoga, spinning, pilates, and more! Avo-everything, juice cleanses and wheatgrass shots!) but with Echo, a new canteen and coffee bar in the 2nd arrondissement, the scene is less trend and more thoughtful. Alongside fresh juices and specialty coffee you’ll find a number of dishes atypical for Paris: scrambled egg and Mexican chorizo breakfast sandwich, gluten-free multi-grain pancakes with whipped cream, thyme and sugared grapes, Molasses soaked brioche French toast with preserved persimmons, house-cured fish congee, and loads more (see the full menu here). Before long, all-day breakfast will be as integrated into the Parisian vernacular as le brunch.

Echo Deli, 95 rue d’Aboukir, 75002
Métro: Sentier (line 3)

Scoop: Fou de Pâtisserie’s second boutique is coming this spring to the 9th arrondissement! More on this soon.