The New Paris Dispatch #5

    12 February 2018
    Belleville Brûlerie at L'Exception Paris

    After an unintentional hiatus (we moved apartments at the beginning of the month! More on that soon…), I’m happy to be back with the first 2018 installment of The New Paris Dispatch, a quick-fire look at changes and updates in the capital. Racines is back with Simone Tondo at the helm! Racines is a name synonymous with quality bistro cooking but it had largely fallen by the wayside in recent years as an endless crop of new establishments have stepped into the spotlight. Fortunately, the compact old-world favorite inside the Passage des Panoramas has gotten an overhaul with the arrival of Sardinian chef Simone Tondo. After Roseval and most recently Tondo, his namesake upscale restaurant in the 12th arrondissement, he’s back with a cuisine and an open-kitchen  that resembles his style best: a cross between the bistro and an osteria with the technique of a classically trained French chef and all the heart and spirit of Italian cooking. The menu is about great home-style cooking and features three starters (meat, veggie and fish), three main dishes (meat, fish and a pasta — my favorite), French cheeses, two dessert options (get the tiramisu), and beautiful wines. It was one of the […]…

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  • The New Paris Smithsonian Magazine

    2017: “The New Paris” Year

    As I think of 2017’s swift end, I think of the disparity between what I observed for the world at large — a tumultuous year punctuated by political strain, instability, destruction, and uncertainty —…

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